Mirror, mirror: The psychology of how we determine the fairest of them all

The second is facial averageness, which describes how “average” a face and its features are 2. Think of it as Goldilock’s rule for facial features: we prefer features that are not too big or small, too thin or thick, or too wide or close, but are instead just right. This may be surprising to some, as we tend to view certain uncommon features as more attractive, such as unusually wide eyes or high cheekbones. However, average features typically indicate that a person is likely to be in good or, at the very least, normal health. Contrastingly, extreme features can indicate the opposite. Since we’re evolutionarily motivated to seek reproductive partners with healthy genes (even if we lack the interest or ability to reproduce with our chosen partners), we find individuals with average features more attractive.

            Beyond these two cues, we also evaluate attractiveness based on perceived skin health. Indications of health problems, including sallowness or skin conditions which change the homogeneity of skin, can make faces appear less attractive 3. Contrastingly, cues of good health, such as yellow or red undertones, are viewed as attractive 4.

            A fourth biological cue is sexual dimorphism. This one is both less understood and more sensationalized than the other three, and describes the effect of sex differences on features such as body size, primary and secondary sex characteristics, and, more importantly for us, facial features. “Masculine” features develop largely thanks to testosterone 5, a hormone common in those with XY chromosomes. They include a larger jaw, more prominent cheekbones, and thinner cheeks and lips 6. Contrastingly, “feminine features” develop with the help of estrogen and other hormones common in those with XX chromosomes 5, resulting in a smaller jaw, rounder lips and cheeks, and a smaller face 6.

            Sexual dimorphism cues tend to affect us differently based on our gender and sexual orientation. When evaluating women, straight men tend to prefer women with more feminine faces—no surprises there 7. Interestingly, while gender nonconformity is more common in queer women 8, gay women also gave higher ratings to feminine faces, although not to the same extent as straight men 7.

The differences get more interesting when discussing people who are attracted to men. Gay men tend to prefer more masculine male faces 7, although there are differences in this preference based on whether they identify as tops, bottoms, or versatile 9 (yes, there are studies on this!). 

Research on what straight women prefer is less clear and oftentimes contradictory: in some studies, they preferred masculine male faces; in others, feminine male faces; in yet more studies, they preferred neither 7. Fascinatingly, there is some evidence that this preference might coincide with women’s hormonal cycles, with women more likely to prefer masculine faces while ovulating 10 and more likely to prefer feminine faces when on birth control 11. Countless evolutionary psychology studies have tried to explain these results: perhaps a more masculine face indicates better health and therefore better genes 2; perhaps a more feminine face indicates a guy with a better personality 11.

            Either way, it seems that beauty isn’t entirely subjective; biological traits do matter for most people, even if they don’t always have a consistent effect. Does that mean the majority of us acne-ridden, asymmetrical sad sacks should delete our dating apps and start adopting cats? Of course not—biology, while important, only provides a first impression. Perceived personality plays an important factor: if people believe someone is honest or creative, they tend to rate their faces as more attractive; conversely, they tend to give lower ratings to faces of those they think are aggressive 13. Hey, what do you know—maybe nice guys (and gals, and nonbinary pals) can finish first.

With all this being said, our attraction to people is too complex to be fully described by lab studies wherein freshmen rate a dozen faces on a computer screen in the asbestos-ridden basement of Sidney Smith Hall. Attraction is a short sprint; romance and relationships, on the other hand, are a marathon effort. After all, Snow White’s stepmother got to be the fairest of them all, but you, dear reader, are undoubtedly the better partner. Perhaps we should learn from her example and worry less about our reflections in the mirror.